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GrapeView: The Grapes of Maryland Throughout the year we will be profiling the characters behind the wines you buy – the winemakers of Maryland. Their stories provide great insight into Maryland wine's deep history and bright future. Please keep checking back – the series will
expand each month. White Grapes Red Grapes Cabernet
Franc –– Robust, yet obedient In only the second year of harvesting at Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyards, the Cabernet Franc grape produced four tons. “That vintage won double gold in the International Eastern Wine Competition up in Ithaca against 2,500 other wines from all over the world,” says McGarry. Plantings of the Cabernet Franc grape began in 1980 in California when winemakers wanted to imitate the Bordeaux blend. Cabernet Franc is a medium-skinned, mid-ripener that usually produces a dry wine. It is the main red grape of the Loire Valley and one of the three major grapes of Bordeaux. Cabernet Franc can be used to produce a varietal wine, but it is more commonly used as a blending agent to impart color and fragrance. The vine is extremely vigorous, and the berries are rather small with a bluish-black color. The Cabernet Franc grape is very similar to Cabernet Sauvignon, of which it is a parent. It ripens earlier, usually has lower acidity, and is able to survive more readily in cooler climates compared to the Cabernet Sauvignon. Bill Loew of Loew Vineyards in Mount Airy says that because of its resistance to fungus and the fact that it matures a bit earlier, “if you had to select between Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, [in our region] go with the Franc.” As a wine, it is more moderate in terms of weight and robustness; therefore, Cabernet Franc pairs well with a wide range of foods. “It’s my pick for Thanksgiving,” says Carol Wilson of Elk Run Vineyards in Mount Airy, one of the first wineries to bottle the grape in Maryland. Robust, winter-hearty, and aromatic, the last 10-15 ripening days are most important for the Cabernet Franc. “Toward the end of maturation it becomes a very lovely grape,” says McGarry.
Vidal Blanc ––
Tough-skinned and versatile
The grape is thick-skinned, which helps it stay disease-free even in the wettest growing seasons. Vidal Blanc has a reputation of being easy to grow and very productive…sometimes yielding up to eight tons of fruit per acre. “"Vidal has been the workhorse of our vineyard," says Jennie Schmidt, a commercial grower in Sudlersville in Queen Annes County. “The variety is more disease resistant and capable of producing higher tonnage. As a hybrid, Vidal generally demands less of our management time than the vinifera varieties.” The Schmidts sell Vidal grapes to numerous Maryland wineries. “Vidal is definitely in our vineyard expansion plans." Aromatic with lively acid, Vidal Blanc makes an excellent off-dry wine, but can also be used to create late-harvest and ice-style wines. “Vidal Blanc is one of the most versatile grapes that are grown in Maryland,” says Al Copp of Woodhall Wine Cellars in Parkton. It makes a very nice, fruity sweet wine, an excellent dry wine that pairs well with food. “It’s great all-around – but it really excels in late harvest and ice wines,” says Copp. Wines made from this grape are available from: Chardonnay––
A Flexible Classic The grape itself is neutral which accounts for a subtle nose and lack of a distinctive flavor, leaving much of the resulting wine’s character to the winemaker’s craft. Yet, the taste pleases as many drinkers as its easy cultivation pleases many growers and winemakers. In warm years, Chardonnay can present lush, tropical aromas. In cooler years, the grape yields a steely, sometimes minerally character. Winemakers argue whether it’s best to age Chardonnay in barrels or stainless steel; either option can produce an extraordinary wine. “Chardonnay ripens fairly well in almost any year,” comments Bert Basignani of Basignani Winery. “It ripens early, and it doesn’t have a tendency to over-crop [like other varieties].” Even as an early ripener, Chardonnay is susceptible to powdery mildew, a common affliction of vines grown in humid conditions. All in all, the grape is fairly disease resistant, according to Basignani. “As long as I can control powdery mildew, Chardonnay does quite well,” says Dick Penna, a grape grower in Washington Country in Western Maryland. “Chardonnay is reasonably vigorous and produces good fruit with a fair degree of complexity.” Its popularity—and abundant availability from wineries worldwide—does imply significant competition for winemakers. Basignani says, “It is a tough market to compete it, but I really like the wine it makes.” Chambourcin
–– The French American Chambourcin was developed by Joannes Seibel in the France’s Loire Valley and released in the 1960s. It has been planted in America and Australia since the 1970s. Today, more than half of the world’s Chambourcin is planted in the Loire. In fact, it is the third most planted grape variety in the Loire-Atlantique region. Philip Wagner, the late founder of Boordy Vineyards in Hydes, was instrumental in propagating the vine throughout America via his vineyard and nursery business. Chambourcin is a late-ripening grape that requires a long growing season. Deep crimson in color, it is extremely vigorous and high-yielding after a few seasons of planting. Steve Purvins of Lawtan Hall Vineyard in Southern Maryland's St. Mary's County, has been growing the grape for eight years with great success. “Chambourcin is a good grower—I’ve always gotten a good crop,” says Purvins. “It has a tendency to grow too well,” he says, referring to its incredible vigor. The grape yields wines that are deep in color, very fruity, and exceptionally flavorful. As a result of the grape’s high tannins, thick skin, and good acidity, Chambourcin wines produce fragrant, herb-like aromas. “You can do whatever you want with it—that’s the beauty of the grape,” says Mike Fiore, of Fiore Winery in Pylesville, Maryland. “It has very strong potential. I’ve seen people make a rosé out of it, and I’ve seen people making full-bodied, robust red, just like we do.” Fiore’s Proprietor’s Reserve Chambourcin is considered by many to be one of the nation’s best examples of Chambourcin’s potential. The grape’s future in Maryland is strong. “I would recommend Chambourcin to any new grower,” says Purvins.
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