When tasting wine, connoisseurs hold their glasses up to the light to look at the wine's colour and clarity. I don't always know what I'm supposed to see, but at Naylor Wine Cellars in Pennsylvania, I held up my white wine and it was crystal . . . No. I have to say... read more >

When tasting wine, connoisseurs hold their glasses up to the light to look at the wine's colour and clarity.

I don't always know what I'm supposed to see, but at Naylor Wine Cellars in Pennsylvania, I held up my white wine and it was crystal . . . No. I have to say that it was most definitely cloudy. Very clearly cloudy. Hide

One trend regionally is the development of sparkling wines. J. Maki Winery has always been known best for those on this side of the Mason-Dixon, and Cygnus Wine Cellars carved out a similar niche (although not to the same extreme) in Maryland. But follow the emails... read more >

One trend regionally is the development of sparkling wines. J. Maki Winery has always been known best for those on this side of the Mason-Dixon, and Cygnus Wine Cellars carved out a similar niche (although not to the same extreme) in Maryland.

But follow the emails about new releases and the word sparkling pops up more often. Slack Winery in Ridge, Md., along the Chesapeake Bay, that its 2009 White Shoals sparkler, made from the chardonel grape, recently picked up an award at the San Francisco Chronicle International Wine Competition. The winery produces three sparkling wines and will introduce another this spring. Hide

BERLIN — One of the state’s premier vineyards will be featured next week at the Maryland Wine Bar at Berlin. Deborah Everett’s Maryland Wine Bar will host Black Ankle Vineyards for a wine pairing on Feb. 26. “We’re very honored that the... read more >

BERLIN — One of the state’s premier vineyards will be featured next week at the Maryland Wine Bar at Berlin.

Deborah Everett’s Maryland Wine Bar will host Black Ankle Vineyards for a wine pairing on Feb. 26.

“We’re very honored that the owners are coming,” Everett said. “This is a pretty special event for us.” Hide

Here are some of my recommendations from "the other 47" that exemplify the exciting growth in American wine as captured by Jancis Robinson and Linda Murphy in their new book, "American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the... read more >

Here are some of my recommendations from "the other 47" that exemplify the exciting growth in American wine as captured by Jancis Robinson and Linda Murphy in their new book, "American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United States" (University of California Press). Hide

VIENNA — The latest addition to the Eastern Shore’s wine portfolio is a grape unknown even among many oenophiles but with a history steeped in mid-Atlantic tradition. Layton’s Chance Winery this week debuted its first vintage of Norton, becoming... read more >

VIENNA — The latest addition to the Eastern Shore’s wine portfolio is a grape unknown even among many oenophiles but with a history steeped in mid-Atlantic tradition.Layton’s Chance Winery this week debuted its first vintage of Norton, becoming the first Shore winery to offer wine made from the grape. Hide

The small wineries of USA’s eastern seaboard seem able to find success while bypassing the world of ratings, national publicity and even distribution networks. Roger Morris finds out how they do it. ALTHOUGH HIS small estate winery is only 12 years old, Anthony... read more >

The small wineries of USA’s eastern seaboard seem able to find success while bypassing the world of ratings, national publicity and even distribution networks. Roger Morris finds out how they do it.

ALTHOUGH HIS small estate winery is only 12 years old, Anthony Vietri, owner and winemaker at Pennsylvania’s Va La Vineyards, has been producing wines of such quality that his best bottles command up to US$50 (HK$388). Yet his wines have never been reviewed and rated by a national publication. Hide

Just a few weeks ago, I was at some holiday party of the not-very-interesting variety. Then a guest opened a bottle of cider they’d brought—Millstone Cellars’ Ciderberry blend—and things suddenly got very interesting. The clear, carnelian liquid... read more >

Just a few weeks ago, I was at some holiday party of the not-very-interesting variety. Then a guest opened a bottle of cider they’d brought—Millstone Cellars’ Ciderberry blend—and things suddenly got very interesting. The clear, carnelian liquid was unlike any cider I’d ever tasted, with a playful nose of fruit that opened into a crisp mid-body, a tad bit sweet but not overwhelmingly so, with aromas of citrus and cedar. It was a complex concoction, and I kept refilling my glass trying to name all the flavors within. I realized I was drinking this cider like it was a fine wine. Heretofore my experience had been that bottled hard cider is fizzy, sweet, and basically boring. I wondered if this sophisticated rendition was some kind of European import and was astonished to find out, upon reading the label, that it’s made in Monkton—just a quick run north from the city. Hide

Not everyone who drinks and enjoys Maryland wines knows that not all Maryland wines are all made strictly from Maryland-grown grapes. Happily, that’s not the case with Woodhall Wine Cellars, started in 1983 by Al Copp and Chris Lang at a time when there were not many... read more >

Not everyone who drinks and enjoys Maryland wines knows that not all Maryland wines are all made strictly from Maryland-grown grapes. Happily, that’s not the case with Woodhall Wine Cellars, started in 1983 by Al Copp and Chris Lang at a time when there were not many other wineries in the state. Hide

SMITHSBURG — On three acres of sloping Myersville gravelly loam, hundreds of young grape vines are maturing, waiting to yield their first harvest late next year. The ground near Smithsburg where the vineyard sits is, by soil composition, elevation, slope and climate,... read more >

SMITHSBURG — On three acres of sloping Myersville gravelly loam, hundreds of young grape vines are maturing, waiting to yield their first harvest late next year. The ground near Smithsburg where the vineyard sits is, by soil composition, elevation, slope and climate, similar to what one would find in the Burgundy region of France, said Joe Fiola, a viticulture specialist with the University of Maryland Extension. Hide

Susan Southard considers herself a wine aficionado. She belongs to the Tasters Guild of Maryland. She is a member of the Baltimore Wine Meetup. She attends wine festivals and treks the wine trails. Last month, the Baltimore resident added another credential to her wine... read more >

Susan Southard considers herself a wine aficionado. She belongs to the Tasters Guild of Maryland. She is a member of the Baltimore Wine Meetup. She attends wine festivals and treks the wine trails. Last month, the Baltimore resident added another credential to her wine resumé. Southard launched the first and only online magazine devoted to Maryland wine and wineries. Hide

The Department of Economic Development and the Carroll County Chamber of Commerce recently partnered to recognize successful and growing Carroll businesses.

The Department of Economic Development and the Carroll County Chamber of Commerce recently partnered to recognize successful and growing Carroll businesses.

You can't blame the Maryland wine industry for being a bit giddy today. DrinkLocalWine.com announced earlier today that it will hold its fifth annual conference April 12-14, 2013, in Baltimore, focusing on Maryland wine. The state's wine industry is one of the fastest... read more >

You can't blame the Maryland wine industry for being a bit giddy today. DrinkLocalWine.com announced earlier today that it will hold its fifth annual conference April 12-14, 2013, in Baltimore, focusing on Maryland wine. The state's wine industry is one of the fastest growing in the country, nearly doubling in size over the past two years to more than 60 wineries. Hide

Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard was recently highlighted in the Washington Post in its "Worth the Drive 2012" feature. >>Read More

Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard was recently highlighted in the Washington Post in its "Worth the Drive 2012" feature. >>Read More

by Clinton Macsherry Self-diagnosis suggests that the melancholia permeating my Septembers stems from childhood, specifically my rueful reentries into scholasticism. Summer doesn't technically end when the calendar flips from August, but don't try selling that to any... read more >

by Clinton Macsherry

Self-diagnosis suggests that the melancholia permeating my Septembers stems from childhood, specifically my rueful reentries into scholasticism. Summer doesn't technically end when the calendar flips from August, but don't try selling that to any pupil I know. Although I haven't gone "back to school" in decades, September still packs a residual downer, like a month of Mondays.

Self-medication takes the form of long weekends in Ocean City, stretching summer into what's arguably the finest beach time of the year. September's ocean stays warm, its light slants gorgeously, and its nights grow cool and quiet enough for open windows. The so-called "shoulder season," no longer a secret among recovering school kids, can draw sizable crowds. Even so, traffic calms, music softens, and the mellower vibe becomes almost palpable.

All this makes September prime time for exploring what has evolved from a Boardwalk-Fries-and-Big-Gulp town into a pretty good food-and-wine destination. Including the adjoining areas of Berlin, Bishopville, and Fenwick Island, greater Ocean City boasts more than a dozen restaurants that usually deliver on their fine-dining ambitions. You'll find interesting wines in bunches of unexpected places. Liquid Assets at 94th Street pioneered the wine-bistro-inside-a-package-store concept in Maryland. A few years ago, on the shelves of a Coastal Highway shop unassumingly named Late Nite Liquors, I was astounded to find all five of Bordeaux's celebrated "first growths" in vintages dating back to the 1980s.

A great addition to the beach's—and the state's—wine scene opened this summer in Berlin, whose small-town charm has made it a draw for movie producers (Tuck Everlasting, Runaway Bride) as well as tourists. The Maryland Wine Bar at Berlin, brainchild of owner Deborah Everett, occupies a cozy space on Main Street. A wall-sized bottle rack sits across from an eight-stool bar laminated with labels from state wineries... Hide

On a recent Sunday afternoon, Polly Pittman clipped nets over the ripening grapes in the vineyard she hopes will ensure that one of Anne Arundel County's oldest family farms continues to have a future. "Basically, the McMansions start on the other side of these... read more >

On a recent Sunday afternoon, Polly Pittman clipped nets over the ripening grapes in the vineyard she hopes will ensure that one of Anne Arundel County's oldest family farms continues to have a future.

"Basically, the McMansions start on the other side of these trees," Pittman said. "We think of ourselves as the last frontier of agricultural development in Anne Arundel County."

Nearly three centuries after her ancestors started tilling this hill in Davidsonville, the 550-acre Dodon Farm remains the county's largest working family farm. Yet Dodon Farm is too small to make a profit from growing crops alone. Pittman and her husband, Tom Croghan, embraced the notion that to survive, they must process their produce, whether turning strawberries to jam, milk to ice cream or grapes into wine.

"These old tobacco farms, they're not big enough for a commercial farm," Croghan said. "You really have to do the value-added thing." Hide

Holly Hertsgaard had no idea what she would be painting when she arrived at Serpent Ridge Winery, in Westminster, for its first wine-glass painting class. As the evening progressed, a football field appeared on one glass; Camden Yards appeared on another. On her... read more >

Holly Hertsgaard had no idea what she would be painting when she arrived at Serpent Ridge Winery, in Westminster, for its first wine-glass painting class. As the evening progressed, a football field appeared on one glass; Camden Yards appeared on another. On her daughter's two glasses, balloons took shape. "This was supposed to be a mother, daughter night," sadi Hertsgaard, of Westminster, nodding to her daughter's empty chair. "She had to go, (so) I have a lot of work to do," she said dipping her brush into the green paint... Hide

Wine lovers have long had the famous wine growing regions of Napa, California and Bordeaux, France on their oenological radar, but fewer have probably planned a wine getaway to Carroll County. Andrew Baker, owner of Old Westminster Winery, thinks that will change.... read more >

Wine lovers have long had the famous wine growing regions of Napa, California and Bordeaux, France on their oenological radar, but fewer have probably planned a wine getaway to Carroll County. Andrew Baker, owner of Old Westminster Winery, thinks that will change.

“I believe that we can grow world class wine in Maryland. Carroll County … is a great place to grow wine,” Baker said.

As the owner of Carroll County’s newest winery, Baker is at the forefront of a growing local wine industry with roots going back more than 40 years.

“The first vineyards were planted in 1962, but the county was truly identified as a wine growing area by Dr. Hamilton Mowbray with his Montbray wines in the late 1960s and early 1970s,” said Kevin Atticks of the Maryland Wine Growers Association.

Things have grown since 1962. As of 2010, there were 31 acres of vines planted in the county and more have been planted since then, according to Atticks.

Presently, there are five licensed wineries in Carroll County: Cygnus Wine Cellars in Manchester, Old Westminster Winery in Westminster, Galloping Goose Vineyard in Hampstead, Detour Winery in Detour and Serpent Ridge Vineyard in Westminster.
“The oldest winery in Carroll is Cygnus Wine Cellars, the newest is Old Westminster Winery in Westminster,” Atticks said.

Cygnus Cellars was started in 1996 and Old Westminster Winery in 2011.
Of course, with so much wine being produced in regions traditionally associated with wine growing, there remains the question of why someone would start a vineyard in Carroll County.

“Why not? Carroll County has great soils for grapevines, as well as very favorable topography,” said Ray Brasfield, winemaker at Cygnus Wine Cellars.
Baker agrees.

“First and foremost, the conditions are right. We battle a bit more rain than we would like, but the elevation [750 ft] is excellent, the soils are well drained nutrient poor, and we always have a nice breeze blowing which creates an ideal mesoclimate,” Baker said.
In fact, the biggest challenges faced by Carroll County’s vintners have not been in the vineyards themselves.

“The problem is historic and remains even today, convincing residents that not only is Maryland a wine producing state, but that the wine is good and worthy of support from it’s citizens,” Brasfield said.

Working to challenge public perception can also be an expensive proposition, according to Baker.

“Financing has been the biggest challenge in starting this venture. The initial investment it takes to get establish a vineyard and winery can be staggering,” Baker said.
Assistance from local government has been extremely helpful, with the Carroll County Department of Economic Development being essential, according to Baker. In addition to partnering with local wineries and the Maryland Department of Agriculture to form the Carroll Wine Trail, the department has helped with financing and marketing.

“We help wineries with marketing and promotion by holding events on-site such as grand openings. We have utilized the Enterprise Carroll program to help with new winery start-up costs,” said Denise Beaver, deputy director of the Carroll County Department of Economic Development.

The county also promotes the Maryland Wine Festival, which attracts more than 16,500 people over the two-day festival held each September at the Carroll County Farm Museum Beaver said.

The wine festival is now in its 29th year and has become the largest festival held at the Carroll County Farm Museum, according to Dottie Freeman, an administrator at the museum. It has also helped spread the word about Maryland and Carroll County wines around the globe.

“I was in London when someone saw a tote bag that I had about the Maryland wine festival and said, ‘I’ve been there, it’s a great place!’” Freeman said.

Going forward, the Carroll County wine industry will continue to grow, eventually changing the nature of agriculture in the county, according to Atticks.

“There are other wineries in development as it’s a great county in which to have an agricultural business. The county has worked hard over the years to ensure wineries can develop and thrive,” Atticks said.
Baker is also optimistic.

“I believe the sky is the limit for the Maryland wine industry. We are on the front end of big things to come.” Hide

Fred Wilson knew he had some winners even before the fruit from the 2010 harvest reached the winery at Elk Run Vineyards in Maryland’s Frederick County. The extremely hot, dry summer ripened the grapes a fortnight earlier than usual, and most of his wines were... read more >

Fred Wilson knew he had some winners even before the fruit from the 2010 harvest reached the winery at Elk Run Vineyards in Maryland’s Frederick County. The extremely hot, dry summer ripened the grapes a fortnight earlier than usual, and most of his wines were happily cooling in their fermenters within three weeks.

“The balance between the sugars and acids was just about spot-on to carry the wines through malolactic fermentation, so we didn’t have to adjust the wines at all,” recalls Wilson, who has run the winery with his wife, Carol, since 1983. “You should be able to produce something good out of a vintage like that.”

Wilson produced a few good wines from that vintage. Last month, Elk Run took a surprising four best-of-category awards at the Atlantic Seaboard Wine Competition for its 2010 pinot noir, syrah, merlot and cabernet franc, leading a strong showing by Maryland’s up-and-coming wine industry.

This was the eighth year of the competition, which promotes advances in winemaking in 17 states along the Atlantic coast. This year’s competition included 495 wines and 42 gold medals were awarded.

Four other Maryland wines — one each from Basignani and Bordeleau and two from Knob Hall — also won categories and competed for the best-of-show honor. Maryland wineries claimed 11 gold medals, including two by Port of Leonardtown Winery and one for Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard.

The competition’s top prize went to Chateau Frank’s 2006 Blanc de Noirs from New York’s Finger Lakes region, the first sparkling wine to win best of show. Virginia wineries also showed well, with nine category winners and 15 gold medals.

Although Virginia’s numbers surpass Maryland’s, remember that Virginia has four times as many wineries, and its modern wine renaissance began earlier than Maryland’s. This strong result shows that Maryland is its neighbor’s equal, at least in vintages when nothing goes wrong.

I was one of 19 judges at the ASWC, held July 14-15 in Haymarket. Over the two days, not every wine was tasted by each judge. But on Sunday, all 19 of us blitzed through the sweepstakes round of 20 best-of-category winners to determine the best of show. It was a don’t-blink-or-you’ll-miss-it tasting; we had about 15 minutes to evaluate 20 wines and rank our top five without giving scores. (I managed to jot down the code numbers of my favorites.) Each already had won a gold medal.

Yet in that brief time I fell in love with that Elk Run syrah and a lovely 2010 petit verdot from Cross Keys winery in Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley.

No competition can truly anoint the best wines of a state or region, if only because not every wine is entered. Black Ankle Vineyards, widely considered one of Maryland’s best wineries, submitted no wines this year. Neither did such leading Virginia wineries as Linden, RdV, Glen Manor and Boxwood. But such competitions are useful snapshots of how wineries and regions are doing. Maryland has a right to be proud of its performance. And I need to get down to Leonardtown. Hide

Mark Cascia Vineyards was named best local wine in the latest Annapolis Capital Gazette readers' poll. Other finalists included Boordy Vineyards and Black Ankle Vineyards.

Mark Cascia Vineyards was named best local wine in the latest Annapolis Capital Gazette readers' poll. Other finalists included Boordy Vineyards and Black Ankle Vineyards.

THURMONT -- Voytek Fizyta is not waiting until his grapes mature before beginning the process of turning the succulent treats into wine. While his grapes grow, Fizyta is using the oldest method to make wines at Catoctin Breeze Vineyard in Thurmont. Fizyta's... read more >

THURMONT -- Voytek Fizyta is not waiting until his grapes mature before beginning the process of turning the succulent treats into wine.

While his grapes grow, Fizyta is using the oldest method to make wines at Catoctin Breeze Vineyard in Thurmont.

Fizyta's grapes will be ready for harvesting later this year, but the Polish immigrant and electrical engineer has already made a variety of honey wines, traditionally known as Mead.

The vineyard represents the ninth and newest Frederick County winery, and offers two table wines and three dessert honey wines.

"The growth in wineries has been pretty dynamic lately," Fizyta said. "When we got our license, we were number 34 or 35. Now, there are 50 wineries in Maryland."

The draw may be in the crop's profitability.

"As an agriculture crop, you can get more income per acre than you get with wheat or other crops," Fizyta said.

But the vocation comes with some challenges.

"It's more than a hobby," Fizyta said. "It takes money, grapes grow very slow and you face many obstacles from nature."

When Fizyta and his wife, Alicja, looked to relocate from Potomac five years ago, they immediately fell in love with the hilly terrain in Thurmont he described as "our little heaven on Earth."

The couple experimented with the soil to ensure its viability for a vineyard by planting two rows of grapes, then wheat and soybeans were planted to recultivate the soil. The resulting product looked healthy, and two acres were planted in the first year. An additional two acres were planted in April.

"We had some grapes last year, but unfortunately, the birds ate them all," Fizyta said. Birds were a problem for the entire East Coast last year.

"They swarmed on vineyards with a vengeance," Fizyta said. "The summer was dry and my only consolation is the grapes were tasty."

Wine production involves a lot of work, and that's why good wine can't be cheap, Fizyta said.

Growing grapes is labor-intensive, which makes the endeavor expensive. Vines grow an inch a day, the grower has to pay attention to minute details and it's difficult to mechanize everything, especially if the vineyard is small, Fizyta said.

"Every vine needs attention," Fizyta said. "You have to touch each plant, because you only want a certain amount of fruit from each vine."

Making wine is an art, Fizyta said.

"Sometimes you go by the book, sometimes you got to incorporate your own ways of doing things, learning from the notes you take along the way. That way, you develop your own character for the vineyard."

For example, a vine with too many shoots stresses the plant in the wrong way, Fizyta said.

Perched along hilly terrain, grapes get ample sunlight at Catoctin Breeze Winery. The constant breeze evaporates moisture, which is a main problem for East Coast grape growers. Moisture propagates disease, he said.

"Even in the summer, we have constant breeze," hence, the name, Catoctin Breeze, Fizyta said.

The Fizytas outfitted their home with a 1,200-square-foot basement to accommodate making wines. They expect their first significant harvest from the 2010 planting later this year.

The business is licensed to sell wine directly to consumers and restaurants, using the company's website, www.catoctinbreeze.com.

Only two years in the winemaking business and the Fizytas have already won a bronze medal for a cabernet in the Fingerlakes competition in New York.

"I was hoping for better," Fizyta said.

Making wine is fun but it's also a serious endeavor because you're dealing with food, and you have to be cognizant that you are not only making something you like, but other people will like, Fizyta said.

Assisted by their son, Adam, the Fizytas plan to build a cellar and production center into the hill near their home, and a tasting room later. The new location will help with cooling and heating costs.

Fizyta said he encountered many business-friendly Frederick County government workers as he began the winery.

"They look at wineries as having tourist potential for the state," he said.

Being a part of the nine-member Frederick Wine Trail, Fizyta is hoping to capitalize on the flow of tourists who will be passing through the county on their way to Gettysburg for the 150th Civil War anniversary.

The couple came to the U.S. from Poland in 1981 and Voytek Fizyta began working as an automotive engineer with Chrysler Corp. in Michigan. They moved to Maryland in 1994. He owns Poltron Corp., an engineering company that produces bearings, temperature sensor components, electric motors and rotating components for the automotive and machine tool industries.

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Morris Zwick of Terrapin Station Winery in northeastern Maryland makes a number of wines that he packages in a pouch and box. But the one he says that moves out of his Elkton location is his Traminette, a white that can range from dry to sweet but is usually... read more >

Morris Zwick of Terrapin Station Winery in northeastern Maryland makes a number of wines that he packages in a pouch and box. But the one he says that moves out of his Elkton location is his Traminette, a white that can range from dry to sweet but is usually characterized by moderate sugar levels and a floral aroma.

Read the rest here: http://blog.pennlive.com/wine/2011/11/post_89.html Hide

The crates of grapes were a tip-off that I had found the place. They were stacked outside a modest building at the end of a roughly paved one-lane road — the kind you drive hoping no one’s coming the other way — stretching through flat farmland off... read more >

The crates of grapes were a tip-off that I had found the place.

They were stacked outside a modest building at the end of a roughly paved one-lane road — the kind you drive hoping no one’s coming the other way — stretching through flat farmland off Route 32 in Howard County. The boxes were labeled “cabernet sauvignon,” “sangiovese” and “zinfandel” and bore cheerful markings of the Lodi region in California, a sunny clime difficult to imagine on that gray, drizzly Saturday in October.

This was the do-it-yourself winery and winemaking school called Tin Lizzie Wineworks, a playground of sorts for vinophiliacs who aren’t satisfied just drinking the stuff. I joined seven of them for their first hands-on lesson, an adventure that will culminate a  year from now when they will be able to pour a glass for their friends and say, “I made this.” Hide

Maryland wines are feeling a resurgence as vineyards are changing the way they grow grapes and make wine. Boordy Vineyards owner Rob Deford walks along a line of Chambourcin grapes at the Boordy Vineyards in Hydes, Md. The vineyard, which covers 20 acres on a... read more >

Maryland wines are feeling a resurgence as vineyards are changing the way they grow grapes and make wine.

Boordy Vineyards owner Rob Deford walks along a line of Chambourcin grapes at the Boordy Vineyards in Hydes, Md. The vineyard, which covers 20 acres on a 114-acre farm straddling Gapland Road in western Frederick County, was the site of early fighting in the battle of South Mountain in the Civil War. Hide

Drew Baker isn’t waiting for Old Westminster Winery to bottle its first wines to generate buzz about his upstart vineyard. Baker is a vlogger. He uses his video blog — hence, the word vlog — to educate potential customers about his company. Hoping to... read more >

Drew Baker isn’t waiting for Old Westminster Winery to bottle its first wines to generate buzz about his upstart vineyard.

Baker is a vlogger. He uses his video blog — hence, the word vlog — to educate potential customers about his company. Hoping to tap into the viral nature of social media, Baker promotes his family’s new wine-making venture, founded in 2010, through self-produced videos using his iPhone and YouTube. Baker’s wants to build demand for his product so he’s got customers waiting in line when he’s ready to sell in 2013.

See the rest of the article here. Hide

SALISBURY — With seven more wineries to sample from this year, wine connoisseurs strolled into Pemberton Park on Saturday afternoon for the annual Autumn Wine Festival. Entering its ninth year, the festival followed past traditions by having food, wine and... read more >

SALISBURY — With seven more wineries to sample from this year, wine connoisseurs strolled into Pemberton Park on Saturday afternoon for the annual Autumn Wine Festival.

Entering its ninth year, the festival followed past traditions by having food, wine and entertainment at the historic park along the river, but also kept moving forward by adding new tastes.

Attending the festival for the first time was Slack Wines and Vineyards from Ridge, Md., featuring four wines, ranging from a dessert to a dry, red.

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The vineyard on the outskirts of Burkittsville has stories to tell. “We’ve found musket balls here before, but never an arrowhead,” Rob Deford says as I examine the quartz relic his son Phineas has discovered in the vineyard on a sunny September... read more >

The vineyard on the outskirts of Burkittsville has stories to tell.

“We’ve found musket balls here before, but never an arrowhead,” Rob Deford says as I examine the quartz relic his son Phineas has discovered in the vineyard on a sunny September morning. Its tip and edges only slightly dulled by a sojourn in the soil, the arrowhead speaks of centuries of history along the Appalachian Mountains, long before modern man decided this would be a good place to plant grapes.

The vineyard, which covers 20 acres on a 114-acre farm straddling Gapland Road in western Frederick County, was the site of early fighting in the battle of South Mountain, as Union troops overwhelmed a Confederate vanguard to take nearby Crampton’s Gap in September 1862 and push Gen. Robert E. Lee’s troops back toward a bloody and fateful showdown at Antietam.

More recently, and much less dramatically, the vineyard has played a role in the rise, fall and modern resurgence of Maryland wine.

Read the rest of the article at The Washington Post. Hide

Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor. Maryland wines are available primarily from their respective wineries and often are in short supply. Wines recommended here are... read more >

Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor.

Maryland wines are available primarily from their respective wineries and often are in short supply. Wines recommended here are listed on winery Web sites as still available.

Black Ankle Vineyards Slate
Maryland, $45 The Governor’s Cup best-in-show winner for 2011, this blend doesn’t fit any of the classic models. Hide

Napa Valley, meet Maryland. Since Maryland lawmakers made it legal earlier this year for wineries in and out of the state to ship wine to state homes, nearly 450 wineries have applied for or been approved for a direct shipping permit. Twenty three of... read more >

Napa Valley, meet Maryland.

Since Maryland lawmakers made it legal earlier this year for wineries in and out of the state to ship wine to state homes, nearly 450 wineries have applied for or been approved for a direct shipping permit.

Twenty three of Maryland’s 50 wineries have also jumped on board.

Wineries will have no problem shipping, either. U.S. shipping kings Fedex, Fedex Ground and UPS have applied and are on board as common carriers.

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“We look at wine as food.” The words stuck with me as I walked down a grassy slope from the manor house to the vineyard below. The notion of wine as sustenance seemed ancient in origin, something you might read in the bible. The idea seemed as old as the... read more >

“We look at wine as food.” The words stuck with me as I walked down a grassy slope from the manor house to the vineyard below. The notion of wine as sustenance seemed ancient in origin, something you might read in the bible. The idea seemed as old as the earth from which the grape vines before me grew. Of all the places in the world I might have been at the time, Havre de Grace was one of the most unlikely of candidates.

Minutes earlier, I had completed an interview with Mary and Peter Ianniello, the gracious owners of the Federal style villa known as Mount Felix and the vineyard and winery started by them in 2004. The couple, originally from New York, purchased the unique Harford County property to pursue a dream of cultivating grapes, crafting wine, and designing a lifestyle of their choosing. After getting to know Mary and Peter, I realized that their comment about wine being synonymous with food had lofty implications. In their world, the wine experience nourishes not only the body, but the spirit and soul as well.
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Jessica Klug of Pasadena and nine members of her all-girls wine club sat on blankets and folding chairs under the trees in Symphony Woods at Merriweather Post Pavilion on Sunday, 10 half-empty bottles of wine in front of them. "One each," she said... read more >

Jessica Klug of Pasadena and nine members of her all-girls wine club sat on blankets and folding chairs under the trees in Symphony Woods at Merriweather Post Pavilion on Sunday, 10 half-empty bottles of wine in front of them.

"One each," she said cheerfully.

The women, who purchased another 10 bottles to take home, were pleased to learn that Maryland law will soon allow them to order wine directly from out-of-state wineries but were not happy about the tax increase imposed on state liquor sales that some wine drinkers say will hit them the hardest.

"I wonder what the tax increase is going to do to events like this," said club member Nicole Fincham of White Marsh, a huge fan of Maryland's Boordy wines. ("Boordy forever!" she said.)

It was the 19th annual Wine in the Woods festival in Howard County on Saturday and Sunday, and excellent weather produced crowds that averaged 20,000 each day, organizers estimated. Hide

This weekend in downtown Columbia, Symphony Woods will play host to Wine in the Woods, organized by the Howard County Department of Recreation and Parks. It is the Maryland Wine Association’s flagship spring festival and one of the largest on the East Coast,... read more >

This weekend in downtown Columbia, Symphony Woods will play host to Wine in the Woods, organized by the Howard County Department of Recreation and Parks.

It is the Maryland Wine Association’s flagship spring festival and one of the largest on the East Coast, drawing more than 30,000 people total over just two days to sample wines made exclusively in the state of Maryland. Dozens of local wineries turn out to pour everything from albarino to zinfandel.

Don’t think there’s a wine made in Maryland that fits your tastes? Whether you’re a fan of easy-drinking semi-sweet wines or complex cabernet blends, there’s a Maryland wine out there for you. Hide

ANNAPOLIS, Md. — Gov. Martin O’Malley has signed legislation that will raise Maryland’s sales tax on alcohol by 50 percent in July. O’Malley signed the bill Thursday in Annapolis. The sales tax on alcohol will rise from 6 percent to 9 percent.... read more >

ANNAPOLIS, Md. — Gov. Martin O’Malley has signed legislation that will raise Maryland’s sales tax on alcohol by 50 percent in July.

O’Malley signed the bill Thursday in Annapolis.

The sales tax on alcohol will rise from 6 percent to 9 percent.

The tax is estimated to raise about $85 million a year.

About $15 million will go toward easing a waiting list for the developmentally disabled. Next year only, about $47 million will be used to help pay for school construction costs. Hide

ROHRERSVILLE— Plants are in the ground for Washington County's next vineyard. J. Randall Thompson, president and CEO of ThompsonGas, has started a vineyard and wine-making business called Big Cork at his family farm in Rohrersville in southern Washington County.... read more >

ROHRERSVILLE— Plants are in the ground for Washington County's next vineyard.

J. Randall Thompson, president and CEO of ThompsonGas, has started a vineyard and wine-making business called Big Cork at his family farm in Rohrersville in southern Washington County.

Thompson, who's known as Randy, and his wife, Jennifer, are partners in the budding business with Dave Collins, who joined them after about 25 years producing wine in Virginia.

Thompson said it will take three growing seasons before their first grapes are ready, but the company plans to buy some Maryland grapes before then to get started on making wine.

Next summer, the Thompsons and Collins plan to build a production facility, then, about a year later, open a tasting room.

They also are considering hosting events at the site.

Randy Thompson said the first white wines from their grapes should be ready in 2014, followed by reds in 2015.

"You have to have a vision that's several years out," he said. Hide

As the county's popular annual May event, Wine in the Woods, approaches, wine lovers have one more thing to be excited about: Wineries can now set up shop in Howard County. The County Council unanimously passed a bill Monday that amends the county's zoning regulations... read more >

As the county's popular annual May event, Wine in the Woods, approaches, wine lovers have one more thing to be excited about: Wineries can now set up shop in Howard County. The County Council unanimously passed a bill Monday that amends the county's zoning regulations to allow wineries on parcels of land at least 5 acres in size.

But the new law comes with several restrictions, including requirements for the type of roads wineries can use for visitor access and limits on the number of visitors and promotional events.

Kevin Atticks, director of the Maryland Wineries Association, said Howard's winery law is the most restrictive in the state. While Atticks initially had concerns about the restrictions, he said the final product is an appropriate compromise. Hide

Want a bottle of Maryland wine to go with the fresh vegetables and locally raised meats you buy at an area farmers' market? Local markets hope to fulfill that wish this season after passage of legislation by the Maryland General Assembly to allow wineries to join other... read more >

Want a bottle of Maryland wine to go with the fresh vegetables and locally raised meats you buy at an area farmers' market?

Local markets hope to fulfill that wish this season after passage of legislation by the Maryland General Assembly to allow wineries to join other local merchants in touting their goods.

The legislation would allow wineries to obtain up to 12 special event permits annually to use at farmers' markets in Baltimore County, with up to six being able to be used at the same market.

Wineries would not be able to sell wine by the glass, however.
The bill passed the House of Delegates, 139-0, and the Senate, 47-0.
It still needs to be signed by Gov. Martin O'Malley. That could take place May 10 or May 19, according to an email from Shaun Adamec, a spokesman for the governor.

State Sen. Ed Kasemeyer was out of town and unavailable for comment, but his administrative aide, Paula Wolf, said she discussed the matter with him.
She said Kasemeyer felt that it was a "wonderful opportunity" for wineries to be able to showcase their product to a "broader segment of the community at the farmers' markets."

Susan Rayner, director of marketing at Boordy Vineyards, in Hydes, said the winery has been approached by the Arbutus market.

"We're very excited about this bill," she said. "It's about time that everybody realized that wine really is agriculture.

"We're farming. We're good for the (Chesapeake) Bay," she said, noting that runoff is minimal from vineyards and not as harmful as the runoff from other industries.

"Wine goes better with the food that is grown in its region," Rayner said. "I think people are finally understanding that food and wine go together."

Cynthia Yingling, a Pennsylvania farmer who is treasurer and market master of the Catonsville Wednesday Market, said she hopes to attract wineries this year once the bill becomes law.

The market on the parking lot of Bloomsbury Community Center on Bloomsbury Avenue is held weekly, 10 a.m. to 1 p.m., from May 4 to Nov. 23.

Since wineries can only obtain a certain number of permits, Yingling said a several could get together to share a spot throughout the season.

She said the wineries will add "another dimension" to the market.

"It's a local product, agricultural product, that should be made available," she said. "It adds variety to a market."

Teal Cary, executive director of the Greater Catonsville Chamber of Commerce, which hosts the Catonsville Sunday Farmers' Market, said she plans to invite wineries to participate this year.

"We were waiting to make sure the bill was going to pass," said Cary, who sent a letter to the General Assembly that her organization supported the legislation earlier this year.
"It's a wonderful way to educate the public about the wineries here in Maryland," Cary said.

Hopefully, residents will discover local wines they enjoy then request them in local liquor stores, she said.

"When I think about our Sunday market, because of the variety we have, you can come and shop for a beautiful Sunday dinner," said Cary about the market, which starts its second year May 15.

The Sunday version is from 10 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. at 730 Frederick Road in downtown Catonsville.

"It just enhances our market really," she said. Cary said market visitors can buy a wide variety of vegetables, chicken, beef, pork, bison and dessert.

"And hopefully, a bottle of wine," she added.

Setting the stage
Terry Nolan, former president of the Arbutus Business and Professional Association, said the association is waiting to hear from the 42 wineries it invited to participate in the new Arbutus Farmers' Market.

The Arbutus event is scheduled to have its soft opening June 9 and its grand opening June 16. The markets will be held 2-6 p.m. Thursdays on the parking lot at the Arbutus Volunteer Fire Department's hall off Southwestern Boulevard and will run until the end of October.

Nolan said wineries will be part of the marketing strategy for the new market, which will run until October.

As commuters make their way home from the nearby MARC train station, Nolan said he imagines placing the wineries in a row along Linden Avenue so that the passerby will see stacks of wine boxes and stop by.

"Once the people come into the market for that purpose, they then can see that there is marvelous produce available, that the caterer at the fire hall is selling crab cakes to die for, as well as excellent cream of crab soup," said Nolan, referring to Catonsville resident Julie Eveland's catering business, For Real Meals by Juls, at the hall.

The venue will also be a great market development tool for the wineries themselves by introducing their wines to lots of new people, Nolan said.

"Particularly in this market, which is the target audience for high-value-added items such as wine," he said.

Allowing 12 additional special events permits for wineries to use at farmers' markets in their respective counties in Baltimore, Carroll and Frederick counties this year follows similar action taken in Prince George's and Montgomery counties last year, according Kevin Atticks, executive director of the Maryland Wineries Association, an industry trade group.

"We're excited to have this expanded ability for wineries to connect their wines to other local products," Atticks said.

Wineries can now use their 12 special event permits statewide, plus 12 additional permits for farmers' markets in each of the counties that has passed the legislation, he said.

The move addresses the problem wineries faced of having many more opportunities than they were allowed to participate in, Atticks said.

While many markets wanted to include wineries, they also wanted vendors who could make a more regular appearance or rent a booth at the market, he said.

He said that, based on his conversations with market managers, they are happy to have the wineries come in any capacity.

"It still leaves open the question of when are we going to fix this law?" he asked, noting wineries in Pennsylvania and Virginia do not face similar restrictions. Hide

A tornado touched down on Glissans Mill Road near Mount Airy Saturday evening, uprooting trees and destroying several roofs at a winery. No injuries were reported. Anthony Aellen, president and winemaker at Linganore Winecellars, said he noticed uprooted trees and... read more >

A tornado touched down on Glissans Mill Road near Mount Airy Saturday evening, uprooting trees and destroying several roofs at a winery. No injuries were reported. Anthony Aellen, president and winemaker at Linganore Winecellars, said he noticed uprooted trees and what looked like metal debris as he was heading up the driveway to the winery Sunday morning. It wasn't until he had almost reached the property that he realized the debris was what was left of the roofs of a processing room, an equipment building and a tank room from the winery. Hide

Anyone thirsting for a Howard County winery tour will have to wait at least one more month to begin planning. Legislation to allow wineries in Howard County was tabled Monday night by the Howard County Council, the second consecutive year that the Ulman... read more >

Anyone thirsting for a Howard County winery tour will have to wait at least one more month to begin planning. Legislation to allow wineries in Howard County was tabled Monday night by the Howard County Council, the second consecutive year that the Ulman administration legislation has run into trouble. Members who asked for the delay said more time is needed to iron out unresolved issues over relatively small preserved parcels of land in residential areas. Some worry they could attract too many people and too much traffic if used for wineries. Hide

Gov. Martin O'Malley said he will sign the legislation, which allows direct wine shipping from Maryland wineries. The wine industry is moving into the Internet age with the Maryland General Assembly passing a bill that will allow wineries to ship straight to... read more >

Gov. Martin O'Malley said he will sign the legislation, which allows direct wine shipping from Maryland wineries.

The wine industry is moving into the Internet age with the Maryland General Assembly passing a bill that will allow wineries to ship straight to customers homes. But as CNS-TV's Robyne McCullough found out, not everyone is toasting the victory. Hide

Wineries across the state — and country — soon might be permitted to ship bottles directly to Maryland homes. Shoppers could pick up local wines at more farmers' markets. And diners might one day be able to bring their favorite vintage to an already licensed... read more >

Wineries across the state — and country — soon might be permitted to ship bottles directly to Maryland homes. Shoppers could pick up local wines at more farmers' markets. And diners might one day be able to bring their favorite vintage to an already licensed restaurant.

After years of shooting down changes to the state's alcohol laws, lawmakers are showing signs this year that they're ready to embrace some measures long sought by consumers.

But for enthusiasts, there may be a price to pay: On Thursday, a Senate committee agreed to raise the sales tax on alcohol from 6 percent to 9 percent. If the increase survives the budget process, it would be the first tax hike on alcohol in four decades.

Maryland wine aficionados are cheering the policy developments. While many are not happy about the potential tax increase, several predicted that it would have minimal impact on sales. Hide

A proposal to allow Maryland wine drinkers to get bottles shipped directly to their homes has won the approval of two key legislative committees. The Senate Education, Health and Environmental Matters Committee and the House Economic Matters Committee both voted... read more >

A proposal to allow Maryland wine drinkers to get bottles shipped directly to their homes has won the approval of two key legislative committees.

The Senate Education, Health and Environmental Matters Committee and the House Economic Matters Committee both voted overwhelmingly Tuesday to send the direct-ship proposal to the full legislature.

The development bodes well for the legislation; in years past, those two committees have bottled up the plan, which is popular among consumers.

"It's a good bill," said Sen. Roy Dyson, the Senate committee's vice chairman and a Southern Maryland Democrat. "And it has been a long time coming."

The legislation represents a compromise. Hide

Pinotage in Maryland? The grape with deep roots in South Africa is sitting in Woodhall Wine Cellars' aging area in Parkton, Md., with a bottling scheduled for sometime this summer. It isn’t much -- around 530 pounds, which translates to between 13 and 14... read more >

Pinotage in Maryland? The grape with deep roots in South Africa is sitting in Woodhall Wine Cellars' aging area in Parkton, Md., with a bottling scheduled for sometime this summer.

It isn’t much -- around 530 pounds, which translates to between 13 and 14 cases. Thanks to the futures sale at Woodhall during the past month, demand has exceeded quantity, with some people now on a waiting list. Hide

Maryland Jews are letting legislators know it’s not just wine connoisseurs who want wines shipped to their homes. Fed up with the limited number of kosher wines available in the state, proponents of changing the state’s wine laws say they no longer want to... read more >

Maryland Jews are letting legislators know it’s not just wine connoisseurs who want wines shipped to their homes. Fed up with the limited number of kosher wines available in the state, proponents of changing the state’s wine laws say they no longer want to celebrate Passover with the same old Manischewitz. Hide

Robert Deford, owner of Boordy Vineyards, in Hydes, is hoping that after 30 years, 2011 proves to be a vintage year for legislation that would allow Maryland wineries to ship products to customers through the mail.

Robert Deford, owner of Boordy Vineyards, in Hydes, is hoping that after 30 years, 2011 proves to be a vintage year for legislation that would allow Maryland wineries to ship products to customers through the mail.

Passage of two bills could make shipping wine to customers in Maryland legal for the first time since a ban prohibited direct shipping in 1933.

Passage of two bills could make shipping wine to customers in Maryland legal for the first time since a ban prohibited direct shipping in 1933.

By Liam Farrell Wine connoisseurs could get a reason to toast the General Assembly this session, but the victory could have a sour aftertaste. Although there is plenty of support in both chambers this year to allow the direct shipment of wine to Maryland consumers,... read more >

By Liam Farrell

Wine connoisseurs could get a reason to toast the General Assembly this session, but the victory could have a sour aftertaste.

Although there is plenty of support in both chambers this year to allow the direct shipment of wine to Maryland consumers, disagreements remain over how broad the legislation should be.

State Sen. Joan Carter Conway, D-Baltimore City, the chairwoman of the Senate committee considering that chamber's bill, said Thursday the final legislation will likely allow consumers to get products only from wineries - not retailers.

She said this stemmed from disagreements among the legislation's stakeholders, a shortage of other states that include retailers in such laws, and concerns about economic impact.

"Retailers were always off the table," Conway said. "Maybe it doesn't have an adverse impact, but I don't see a clear picture."

The senator, who chairs the Senate Education, Health and Environmental Affairs committee, has been a powerful voice in the ongoing debate over whether to open the door for direct wine shipping to customers.

Excluding retailers would be unwelcome news for many of the bill's proponents, who feel this would severely curtail availability and selection.

"The whole point … is to give access to consumers," said Adam Borden, the president of the advocacy group Marylanders for Better Beer and Wine Laws. Without including retailers, the legislation wouldn't "fundamentally address the issue."

Wine lovers have had ups and downs in the last few sessions. Last year saw the passage of the Maryland Winery Modernization Act, which clarified arcane and conflicting statutes by creating a single statewide license for wineries, allowing them to sell at farmers' markets, and ending restrictions, such as requiring tables and chairs for customers.

Direct shipping legislation, however, has proved much harder to pass. Last year's House version of the bill was sponsored by 80 legislators, from all parts of the political spectrum, but still died.

As originally written, this year's bill would charge $100 for a direct wine shipper's permit available to in-state and out-of-state retailers, among others. A "common carrier" permit would cost $100 and be used to deliver wine from inside or outside the state to a Maryland consumer for personal use.

Wine shippers would have to report their activities to the state Comptroller's Office as well as file quarterly tax returns and pay sales and excise taxes. Wine delivery would require the recipient to show photo identification proving he or she is at least 21 years old.

The legislation is supported by majorities in both chambers, with 84 House sponsors and 32 Senate sponsors.

Yet, retailers are continuing to flex their political muscle on the issue. They fear allowing out-of-state retailers into Maryland would cannibalize their business, while just allowing in-state retailers to ship wine could open up legal problems.

Such issues could create regulatory complications, said J. Steven Wise, a lobbyist representing the Maryland State Licensed Beverage Association.

"You are opening the door to a lot of entities you don't have control over," Wise said.

Even retailers not worried about economic competition from shipping have concerns about the bill. Chuck Ferrar, a former county councilman and owner of Bay Ridge Wine & Spirits in Annapolis, said his main concern is preventing people from shipping products already sold in Maryland.

"If (a wine) is not sold in Maryland, they should be able to get it," he said.

Borden questioned whether this could be tracked; wines might be available only in distant counties or in very limited supply.

"The practical implications of doing that start to become overwhelming," he said.

Carter said a meeting will be held early next week to try and hammer out some of the disagreements. Hide

To find that rare California cabernet or New York Riesling, wine aficionados in the Maryland suburbs of Washington are routinely, and in many cases unknowingly, breaking state law to get around rules that restrict residents from having wine shipped to their homes.... read more >

To find that rare California cabernet or New York Riesling, wine aficionados in the Maryland suburbs of Washington are routinely, and in many cases unknowingly, breaking state law to get around rules that restrict residents from having wine shipped to their homes.

Lawyers, government consultants, high-tech workers and even members of the General Assembly - all typically law-abiding residents - have developed an indirect route for smuggling their favorite vino. They have wine delivered to offices in the District or to the homes of friends in Virginia - two of the 38 jurisdictions nationwide that allow vineyards to ship wine directly to consumers.

When Maryland wine connoisseurs drive their cases back across the Free State border, however, they are technically committing a crime - a misdemeanor that carries a fine of up to $10,000 and prison sentence of up to five years. State officials say no residents in recent memory have been prosecuted.

"We know we could be on the border of Washington or Virginia to watch people purchase and bring it into Maryland," said Jeffrey A. Kelly, head of enforcement in the state comptroller's office that is responsible for collecting the alcohol tax. "But that's not our interest. We don't have enough people to do it."

After years of failed efforts, momentum is building among lawmakers in Annapolis for legislation that would change the Prohibition-era rules before the General Assembly session ends in April. Past measures have faced strong opposition from the alcohol industry, which is threatened by the prospect of cutting out the middlemen in what is a heavily regulated system of wholesalers, distributors and retailers.

The effort is popular with oenophiles, who pressed their case with lawmakers during last year's election season. For serious wine drinkers, it's a matter of having access to limited-production wines and being able to join wine-of-the-month clubs. Buying wine, they say, is like buying art.

"It's almost offensive because it's controlling what I can and cannot buy and bring into my own home. It's not harming anyone or anything," said Barbara, a Montgomery County resident who has wine she has tasted during visits to Napa delivered to her husband's office in the District.

In one case, a Howard County resident described having a hard-to-find red blend she discovered at a Maryland vineyard shipped to her nonprofit office in the District, only to drive it home to Maryland.

"It's especially ridiculous to have to have it shipped to another state to support a local business," said Brigitte, who like others interviewed for this report agreed to talk only on a first-name basis because of the potential legal liability.

The politics of the debate appear to have changed, though. In the past three years, lobbyists for the alcohol industry have successfully argued that direct shipment of wine would make it easier for minors to access alcohol. But a report issued in December by state Comptroller Peter Franchot that studied laws in other states found no significant increase in underage drinking in part because " 'wine' is not the drink of choice for youth."

Maryland wine lovers have also become more organized in lobbying legislators. Membership in the grass-roots group Marylanders for Better Beer and Wine Laws, for instance, has grown from about 1,200 in 2008 to more than 20,000.

"Consumers are finally starting to assert themselves," said Adam Borden, president of the group that last session raised awareness among legislators through e-mails and phone calls.

Lawmakers appear eager to embrace the consumer-friendly bill that would allow residents to receive up to 12 cases of wine per year on their doorsteps. In a tough budget year, supporters are also pitching the potential tax benefit. In Virginia, which has had a program in place since 2003, direct shipments represented about 3 percent of all wine sales in the state in fiscal 2010 and generated an estimated $3 million in tax revenue, according to an analysis by the Wine Institute, which backs direct wine shipment.

One version of the measure introduced last week has support from a bipartisan majority of members of the Senate and the House, including Speaker Michael A. Busch (D-Anne Arundel) and Del. Dereck E. Davis (D-Prince George's), chairman of the House committee that will review the bill.

"The majority view has shifted to the point where it's going to become a reality," said Senate President Thomas V. Mike Miller Jr. (D-Calvert), who grew up working at his family's grocery and liquor store in Clinton. "I'm all for open borders if it means Maryland wineries can grow and prosper and other wineries can have access to Maryland consumers."

But some lawmakers, including Miller and Busch, expressed concern about the potential harm to local stores if the bill allows consumers to have wine shipped from out-of-state retailers.

"How do we protect them?" asked Sen. Joan Carter Conway (D-Baltimore), who chairs the Senate committee that will review the legislation.

That is the biggest sticking point for the alcohol industry. Bruce Bereano, a lobbyist for wholesalers, said allowing the sales would "harm in-state liquor stores that are family-owned and part of the fabric of communities."

Industry representatives note that only 12 of the 38 jurisdictions with direct shipment laws on the books allow residents to order from out-of-state retailers. In the long term, the industry worries that such a bill would open the door to shipments from small breweries, cutting into the beer business.

The industry also points to the comptroller's report, which suggests in-state stores would suffer if residents are allowed to order from out-of-state retailers in part because consumers shopping at such outfits are "primarily motivated by 'price.' "

There are signs that the industry is willing to compromise after years of opposition. J. Steven Wise, who represents retailers, said the industry is willing to back another planned version of the legislation that would allow shipments from wineries but not from out-of-state retailers.

"That's a big concession from our end," Wise said.

But Sen. Jamie B. Raskin (D-Montgomery), one of the sponsors, said removing the retail provision would limit the creation of "a real free market for wine consumers."

Del. Tom Hucker (D-Montgomery), who is also planning legislation, said "opponents have been less effective in explaining why consumers in Maryland should be denied a choice that consumers in 37 other states already have."

State officials said they have no way of tracking how many residents are shopping for wine online and finding creative ways of taking it home to Maryland. Anecdotally, though, there seem to be scores - and they're doing it for different reasons.

After moving from California's wine country to Maryland, Dorian said he was disappointed by the limited selection at Montgomery restaurants and liquor stores. He has turned to the Internet for great deals from small wineries that offer free shipping to his wife's office in the District.

"I can't tell you the last time I was at a wine or liquor store in Maryland," he said.

But for Eric, a graphic designer in Montgomery, the "wine-of-the-month" club shipment to his wife's D.C. office has not stopped him from patronizing local stores.

"These are nicer bottles of wine from a winery that I know and love," he said. "I still spend plenty of money at the Montgomery County liquor stores. I don't think it's a matter of economics; it's a matter of convenience." Hide

By Richard Gorelick Drovers Grill & Wine Co. opened in early November in Mount Airy, about two-thirds of the way to Frederick from Baltimore. Located at a historic Maryland crossroads, Drovers occupies a fairly plain-looking structure that was most recently the... read more >

By Richard Gorelick

Drovers Grill & Wine Co. opened in early November in Mount Airy, about two-thirds of the way to Frederick from Baltimore. Located at a historic Maryland crossroads, Drovers occupies a fairly plain-looking structure that was most recently the home of the Kettle Kitchen.

Drovers is running a season-following, local-minded menu. Chef Kevan Vanek is enthusiastic about the menu, and especially his homemade stocks and sauces: "I love broths, I love soups, I love sauces. I'm more of a sculptor than an engineer. Put me in a saucier position, and I'm happy."

Vanek uses his own fish fumet for one of his signature dishes, his version of the cioppino and bouillabaisse, which he calls the "Pot O'Wellness." He's also proud of his Black Angus Platter, which showcases his skills and management of prime and subprime cuts — a duxelles accompanies a sirloin, the filet mignon is served simply; and other cuts are dry-cured, smoked and sliced and served with Vanek's own Sauce Robert.

But Vanek is even more enthusiastic about his Maryland wine program, which features what he believes to be the largest selection of Maryland wines carried by a restaurant. Not only is it extensive, it's exclusive. Drovers stocks only Maryland wines. To help introduce customers to his wine selection, or at least soften them up, Drovers offers what Vanek refers to as complimentary wine service throughout the evening. A server will bring an appropriate or interesting wine to the table and offer diners tastes.

The response to the program has been "very positive," Vanek says. "They'll always say, 'I didn't know Maryland had this many wineries.'" Vanek, an indefatigable father of seven who built much of Drovers' interior himself, adds that "word of mouth has been great" for the restaurant in its first months of operation. "I want customers to have the experience they might have in Tuscany, or in France, where the restaurant they'd go to would serve the local olives, meats and breads."

Vanek has a most interesting resume, too. It includes separate careers in ballet (as a youth) and in opera (much later, after studying government policy at the College of William & Mary), stunt work in movies filmed in Israel starring Kirk Douglas, Brooke Shields ("very down to earth") and Pam Dawber (whom he kind of asked on a date).

On occasion, Vanek's operatic background will slip out and customers will ask him to sing. He will, for special occasions, sometimes accompanied by one of his servers.

"But," he says, Drovers "is my theater now. I'm here to give them beautiful atmosphere and delicious food."

Drovers Grill and Wine Co. is at 17004 Frederick Road, Mount Airy. Call 410-489-7717 or go to droversdining.com. Hide

By Ann E. Marimow Maryland wine lovers may soon rejoice. Legislation that would allow state residents to order bottles of their favorite pinot noir and chardonnay directly to their homes this year has broad bipartisan support from a majority of lawmakers, including... read more >

By Ann E. Marimow

Maryland wine lovers may soon rejoice. Legislation that would allow state residents to order bottles of their favorite pinot noir and chardonnay directly to their homes this year has broad bipartisan support from a majority of lawmakers, including some powerful names, in the House and Senate.

Maryland would join 37 other states and the District in allowing direct wine shipment from vineyards. The legislation, sponsored by Sen. Jamie Raskin (D-Montgomery) and Del. Jolene Ivey (D-Prince George's), has the backing of 32 of 47 senators and 83 of 141 delegates. Among the co-sponsors are House Speaker Michael Busch and Del. Dereck Davis (D-Prince George's), who chairs the Economic Matters Committee.

But a key component of the bill will likely face stiff opposition from the powerful alcohol industry. As written, the measure would allow consumers to buy wine directly from out-of-state retailers.

Anticipating such opposition, Davis said last week, "I'm going to do what I can to forge a consensus." A compromise bill, for instance, could allow direct shipment from wineries - but not from out-of-state retailers.

A report issued by Comptroller Peter Franchot in December looked at the practice in other states and found that direct shipment from out-of-state retailers "would have a negative effect on 'in-state licensees,' because purchases from retailers are primarily motivated by 'price.'" Hide

Next year is the year, advocates have promised, that Maryland residents will be given permission to order wine from wineries and have it shipped directly to their homes. This is legislation that has been long stymied in the state Assembly by wholesalers determined to... read more >

Next year is the year, advocates have promised, that Maryland residents will be given permission to order wine from wineries and have it shipped directly to their homes. This is legislation that has been long stymied in the state Assembly by wholesalers determined to defend their vice grip on the market against the encroachments of wine collectors eager to buy a case or two of rare, small-production boutique wines that are unavailable through the traditional retail system. Hide

Despite the deceptively simple catch phrase, bars, restaurants, wineries and alcohol wholesalers think that the "dime-a-drink" proposal to increase the state tax rate on alcoholic beverages will cost them a lot more. "They can call it 10 cents a drink. I... read more >

Despite the deceptively simple catch phrase, bars, restaurants, wineries and alcohol wholesalers think that the "dime-a-drink" proposal to increase the state tax rate on alcoholic beverages will cost them a lot more.

"They can call it 10 cents a drink. I call it $3 a case of beer," said Jack Milani, a partner in Monaghan's Pub in Baltimore County. Milani is legislative co-chair of the Maryland State Licensed Beverage Association. Hide

ON a recent warm summer evening, well over a thousand people packed the lawns at Boordy Vineyards in Hydes, Md. Families tucked into picnics, toddlers ran freely, and couples and singles danced on the makeshift floor to a swing band pumping out oldies. But the main... read more >

ON a recent warm summer evening, well over a thousand people packed the lawns at Boordy Vineyards in Hydes, Md. Families tucked into picnics, toddlers ran freely, and couples and singles danced on the makeshift floor to a swing band pumping out oldies. But the main reason for the crowds was the wine. Hide